Barcelona will long hold a very large part of my heart. I moved there back in 2006 with my now-husband and a considerable expense account with which to research the city’s hotspots for The Hedonist Guide’s on-line version of the city. For three extremely entertaining (if a little exhausting) months, there wasn’t a bar, club, restaurant, tapas joint or all-night swinging hotspot I didn’t experience first hand. So it was with slightly mixed feelings I boarded a flight last weekend from Gatwick to revisit that spectacular Catalan capital. Jamie and I hadn’t visited together since we left there for Madrid seven years ago, and I wasn’t really sure what to expect. I knew those few days would be loaded with nostalgia and memories, but would it be a very different experience returning as a married mother? Of course, I knew I wouldn’t be tottering along the cobbled lanes in my stilettos as the sun came up, but I wasn’t sure how accessible I would find this notoriously naughty city. Well, I can safely say it is an astonishing city no matter what your age. Whether you’re a teen or towing twins with you, Barcelona is as unique as it is fabulous and there are some wonderful ways to enjoy the city’s very best bits as a family.
As places to stay go, The Hotel Claris, (a member of the Small Luxury Hotels of the World), is ideally located and has everything one could want if traveling as a family. Just a brief walk north of the Placa de Catalunya (Barcelona’s most central spot) along Pau Claris, and you’ll find this gorgeous and intimate hotel. Thanks to a recent refurbishment, it is very much up-to-date in terms of decor but it is far more spacious than a lot of Barcelona hotels that are extremely narrow and have to remain so thanks to the city’s strict laws around development. The two-storey apartment style family rooms make travelling as a pack very do-able and the hotel runs along the lines of helping with whatever they possibly can. So rather than getting a list of amenities and services that are available on arrival, feel free to ask and, if the concierge can do it, they absolutely will. Whether it’s booking restaurant tables or suggesting things to do with children, the lovely staff will help. The rooftop swimming pool makes a fabulous respite from the heady summer heat that, quite literally, envelopes Barcelona and the hotel will arrange babysitters should you need one.
Gaudi’s never-ending cathedral wouldn’t previously have landed on any list of things I wrote relating to kids but, having just been back for the first time since the interior was completed, I would highly recommend this if you’re in Barcelona with older children. What was, quite literally, a construction site last time I visited is now a completed and utterly breathtaking space with giant carved stone pilars that resemble tree trunks (it’s like walking into a surreal ceramic forest). The light is ethereal and this is far beyond the requisite cultural “must” with kids. There is nowhere like it anywhere in the world and it’s the perfect place to introduce older children to architecture and Spanish history.
If you want to instil some Gaudi in your children but the Sagrada Familia is a tad too grown up, the artist’s Parc Guell to the north of Barcelona is a far lighter, and almost entirely outdoors alternative. The surrounding gardens are idyllic picnic spots (and there are lots of shady sections so don’t be put off if you have young ones and it’s very hot). The large mosaic lizard will thrill little ones and the views out across the city are unrivalled.
Castelldefels and Sitges Beaches
Barcelona may have a beach that fringes its edge, but it’s not the most family-friendly. While children are certainly welcome it is littered, often invites young adults who spend the day drinking in the sand and the sea water, thanks to its locality to the city’s port, is pretty polluted. There are, however, some lovely beaches just a short train ride away. Two such examples are Sitges and Castelldefels. A short jaunt out of the city centre by train, they are both totally doable as day trips and well worth considering if you or your little ones need a change of scene.
While the Spanish are very family-friendly and all restaurants welcome children, there are a lot in Barcelona that fail on the high chair front and children’s menus seem to be found most often in hotel restaurants. If some cheap (but seriously good) tapas is what you crave, La Bodegueta, a brief walk up Rambla de Catalunya from Place de Catalunya, is the one I recommend the most. The outdoor seating is shaded, the jamon bellota is mouth-watering, and the staff adore children. The inside space is the Spanish equivalent of a greasy spoon (and smoking is permitted) so the outdoor section is, of course, a better (and far prettier) alternative. In terms of tapas, you won’t find better.
Rambla de Catalunya, 100. +34 93 215 48 94
One top tip: most exhibitions and places of interest can be booked in advance on line, including the Sagrada Familia and the Parc Guell. If you can commit to a time and date it is highly recommended, Not only is it usually cheaper but it will, invariably, save you a good hours(if not more) of waiting in line for tickets.
Superior Rooms at Hotel Claris with Small Luxury Hotels of the World™ (SLH) are from £135 per night based on two people sharing. To book, visit www.slh.com or call 0800 0482 314
For more information on the hotel, visit www.slh.com/hotels/hotel-claris/